In China, dim sum is a traditional brunch activity where diners are given a few short hours to feast on a variety of small delicacies, ranging from soup dumplings to black bean chicken feet.

But in Tucson, diners can enjoy dim sum outside of that small window, thanks to Tucson restaurateur Jo Jo Chan and her midtown spot, Go Dim Sum.

Go Dim Sum operates out of a cozy café at 3504 East Grant Road. The café offers an impressive selection of options found at any restaurant serving yum cha — another word for dim sum — but made to be more portable and enjoyed later in the day.

Chan is also the founder of the successful Noodleholics and came up with the idea for a fast-casual dim sum restaurant in 2021, at a time when the chaos of the COVID-19 pandemic was just starting to settle down. The project came to fruition in 2022, opening right next door to her first Noodleholics location.

The 46-year-old, from Macau, China, made her way to Tucson in 2001 while she was in her early 20s. She attended the University of Arizona and graduated with her business degree in 2006.

After not finding success working in the real estate industry, Chan decided to focus on bringing food embedded in her roots to Tucson diners.

“In China, when I was about 10 years old, I had to start making food for my family,” Chan said. “I think that contributed to my success now, knowing what kind of food I want to sell here.”

Chan started her restaurant career in 2013 as a co-owner of Jun Dynasty, a Chinese restaurant offering traditional Szechuan dishes.

In the years since, she has become a notable name in Tucson’s Chinese food scene, launching Noodleholics in 2018 and expanding it to include two additional locations.

“The reason we opened Go Dim Sum is because of the lack of dim sum here,” said Chan.

When it opened, Go Dim Sum was the only restaurant in Tucson where these small bites served as its main focus. It wasn’t until after Go Dim Sum’s early success that more restaurants began adding it to the menu.

“After six months of opening, we saw other Chinese restaurants all adding a dim sum section as well.”

But the ancient cuisine is still scarce in Pima County, served at only a few other restaurants, including Sushi Lounge and the recently opened Lucky Panda.

Chan said she takes immense pride in Go Dim Sum’s exceptional service and staff. Customers are immediately greeted upon entering the restaurant by friendly servers who will happily provide a quick rundown of the menu before sending them off into the restaurant’s cozy dining room area.

One of these servers is Chinatsu Tokuda, a young Japanese woman who recently joined the staff.

“My favorite thing about working at Go Dim Sum is seeing customers enjoy their time here with our food and drinks,” she said. “It makes me happy when they leave with a smile and come back again and again.”

The food menu is purposefully small, highlighting the list of available dim sum items. Below are other options, including fried rice and a section for bian dang, a Mandarin word for “lunchbox” that is the origin of the Japanese word “bento.”

The bian dang section includes classics like Taiwanese braised pork rice.

When it comes to the representation of Asian cuisine in the United States, Chan believes a lot of the “Americanized” Chinese restaurants have menus that are too large, causing them to lose their charm.

“I’m a person that loves to dine out. I’ve traveled a lot and tried all kinds of cuisines, and I love the restaurants that offer a smaller menu,” Chan said. “It seems like a lot of Chinese restaurants in town have a hundred items and want to copy other restaurants. Why don’t they just focus on what they can make the best and offer that to the Tucson locals?”

With Go Dim Sum and her other establishments, Chan wanted to stay true to the nature of the restaurant’s concept by limiting the menu.

“I like to sell a smaller menu so that we can make sure of the food quality and freshness, and it’s also more efficient for the staff.”

Go Dim Sum’s go-to dishes

First-time dim sum diners can’t go wrong ordering the shrimp har gow. The light and translucent dumplings have a consistently delicate texture, which makes them addicting. A dip in some hot oil or Chinese vinegar makes for the perfect bite.

It’s one of Chan’s longstanding go-to dishes, predating her time in Tucson.

“In China, when we go to dim sum with family and friends, we always tend to order the same thing,” Chan said. “Har gow, siu mai, pork soup dumplings (xiao long bao), chow mein, barbecue pork buns, and dessert.”

The siu mai is another Go Dim Sum essential. These traditional steamed dumplings are iconic for their cup-like shape, plump with a pork and shrimp filling that gives a satisfying and savory bite.

For those who are feeling adventurous, the black bean chicken feet is a delicacy in classic Cantonese cooking and a popular dim sum item.

Chan said she wishes more customers would give it a try.

“Most of the customers will try everything except the chicken feet,” she said. “Most Americans won’t try it.”

The menu includes an array of vegan and vegetarian options, including salt and pepper tofu.

For diners seeking a sweet bite to contrast the menu’s savory items, the Portuguese egg tart will satisfy the need. It’s not overly sweet, which Chan said is an underrated compliment that more people should take seriously.

Biting into the tiny pie, one’s teeth pass through a crumbly crust before meeting its creamy custard filling.

The tarts and the red bean sesame balls are both solid options to satisfy a craving for a sweet treat following the meal. They’re also a staple for Chan and her loved ones.

“When we have dim sum, we always have to order the egg tart and the sesame balls,” she said.

Go Dim Sum is open from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. on Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays and 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. The restaurant is closed on Tuesdays. Find the menu and details at godimsum.com.

Griffen Engelberg is a journalism major at the University of Arizona and reporter with Tucson Spotlight. Contact him at at gje1@arizona.edu.

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